If your RV doesn’t come with an auto-leveling system installed, adding one aftermarket could cost you $5,000 or more.Īdding an auto-leveling system also means a new component that could fail in your RV. The biggest downside is probably the cost. Should You DIY or Have it Done Professionally?Īuto leveling jack systems are convenient, but they’re also much more expensive than simpler leveling systemsĪuto RV leveling jacks are super convenient, but they do have a few downsides including: The control pad will also let you make manual adjustments, in case your RV still isn’t quite level for any reason. The RV auto-leveling system uses a sensor and the previously-inputted calibration data to recognize when your RV is level. Using an electric motor or a hydraulic system, the jacks will extend from the RV and self-level. To do this, you’ll have to use the old-fashioned method of checking if you’re level with a bubble level on the floor of your RV or installing one on the outside of your camper.Īfter you’ve calibrated the auto-leveling system, the next time you arrive at your campsite, all you have to do to activate your auto RV leveling jacks by pressing a button. To get your RV perfectly level every time, you’ll need to calibrate your new automatic RV leveling system when you first install it.Ĭalibration requires you to manually adjust each jack with the control panel until the RV is level, then save these settings to the system. They can sometimes be operated with an app on your phone as well! I don't have one other than trying to help a fellow owner, so please "don't shoot the messenger".Auto RV leveling jacks are typically operated with a control panel inside the RV. Remember-I'm just an owner like you, unlike the others that gave you advice that have a vested interest. Given your travel preferences, it seems likely to encounter the same problem if all that's done is return it back to production specs. As he accurately notes, the departure angle is easily intruded upon with any number of obstacles. What Rob suggested in post #10 of this thread is likely one of the only realistic solutions. If anyone has a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know! Not that it matters or helps, but that's a depressing first post! I was told by the salesman, the grand design representative and the person doing my walk through that they have never had a problem with them and they were fine for off road. Please let me state I was going under 3 mph when this happened because i was waiting for traffic to pass so I could back out on the road. I was backing out of my driveway for the first time and the one of the rear jacks hit a 1/2" lip of the sidewalk and broke the welds on my rear jack. I am a dry camper 90% of the time and travel to my own property which is off road. I was concerned that they would drag where I go camping. I am currently trying to get some help with my Grand Design 260RD back jacks. At the current level with 3 holes above the jack, there is only 1/2' between the top of the jack and the base of the coach. There are about 3 holes above where the jacks are currently mounted, but the jack motor limits the clearance. At the max height, they are about 6" off the ground (I didn't measure yet). If his trailer is like mine (sounds like it), the ground control system is about 6" behind the rear tire. Cate&Rob, has noted that even if within the dA that doesn't mean the jacks won't impact something in an unusual scenario.) To clarify-does your new trailer have the Ground Control system or manual jacks? scotfree didn't post a picture showing the issue, so if you get a chance will you do so? I'm very curious where the jacks are in relation to the "departure angle" (dA). Noted this was your first post, Bryan, so when you get a chance please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members
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